Escape the Benzoyl Peroxide Trap Part II

Lines like Proactiv have a secret weapon in their medicated product. They still use benzoyl peroxide, but they have a 2.5% concentration. What you say? Less active ingredient instead of more?!? Yes, less active ingredient. Used daily, a 2.5% concentration of benzoyl peroxide is very effective against acne, without overdrying the skin like typical over the counter remedies. These companies don't announce the fact that their product contains less active ingredient, but what they do announce is how effective they are-and they are effective, as evidenced by the millions of dedicated consumers purchasing (and more importantly repurchasing) these products every day.

My recommendation:

Now, if you want to purchase Proactiv or a similar line, that's fine. They are quality products that work. But this is the regimen I recommend to my acne clients who prefer the convenience and price point of over the counter products.

1) Cleanse-use the mildest cleanser that gets the job done for you. Most people can use glycerin soap with good results. There are several quality brands out there. If you wear heavy makeup I recommend you use a water rinseable cold cream.

2) Tone-those clients who use a glycerin soap to cleanse may not even need this step if they rinse thoroughly. For my clients who use water rinseable cold cream, I recommend they find an alcohol-free toner that they like. Note that I say toner here and not astringent. Astringents can strip the skin of its acid mantle, causing the pores to overreact and make even more oil, which just exacerbates the problem.

3) Treat-apply a 2.5% benzoyl peroxide product to the affected areas only. Neutrogena's On-The-Spot Acne Treatment is an example of an over the counter 2.5% product. If, after time, your skin starts to feel dry, you can begin to apply the treatment product only before going to bed.

4) Protect-in the morning only and after your treatment product is thoroughly dry, apply a light layer of non-comedogenic sunscreen with an SPF of 15. Make sure your products have dried completely before applying makeup.

Follow this regimen twice a day for best results.

Note: it doesn't hurt to keep a small tube of 5 or 10% benzoyl product available. Get the smallest tube you can and use it to dot on the occasional particularly troublesome pimple. Do not use over large areas of the face, just dot it on when you really need intervention.

* Cystic acne and roseaca are both conditions best treated by a doctor. To put it in simple terms, cystic acne is a form of acne characterized by excessively oily skin, blackheads, whiteheads and cysts-pimple like bumps under the skin that do not have any kind of "head" on them, meaning they do not vent to the outside. Roseaca often looks like a bad case of acne, but you may notice that while whiteheads may appear, few if any blackheads are present and the skin often looks extremely flushed. In both cases a doctor's intervention is the best route to clearer skin.